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VT1100 engine transplant: minor update
Written by spacetiger_j... on 6/12/2011 at 12:24 am

Douglas,

I'd use a reference like Bike bandit to cross check part numbers from different
VT1100 models. For me, I picked a specific model and stayed with that model
+/- a year or 2. I think it was a 98 or 99 Tourer model. Then I made sure I
found most of my parts at about the same time and bought in bulk to save on
shipping. I buy most of my stuff from these guys:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-Shadow-VT1100-Tourer-1100-SWINGARM-SWING-AR\
M-/130309137609?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5707a4c9

They are straight up guys, deliver quickly, have great selections, combine
shipping, and fix something if its an error on their part.

That said, it pays to keep your shopping list ready so you know what you need.
Sometimes a great deal pops up too. I was not really planning on getting
another VT1100 final drive. I have one on Dr. Jekyll. But, one came up on a
buy it now for 9.99 and 15 shipping. It was worth $25 for me to have another
one, so I bought it.

Also, knowing all you need, you can wait for combo's. Sometimes, they put a
deal up and leave the rear axle on. Get that one, or they leave the boot on.
Its the little things that make the price add up.

I will post a complete list once I get the swing arm to no kidding work. That
way I'll have a clear conscience. Until then, I'm just screwing up a wreaked
bike...

Jerry

--- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "douglasvanb" <douglas.vanbossuyt@...> wrote:
>
> Hmm... This makes me very curious indeed... At least one person previously
reported a successful VT1100 rear-end swap. Messages of interest include 87299,
87602, 97406, 97844. Is it possible to use the swing arm from an 87-92 VT1100
with the rear disk setup scavenged from the newer VT1100 rear end you have?
>
> Never forget... if it doesn't fit, a larger hammer will solve all your
problems.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Douglas
>
> --- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <sanae.ej@> wrote:
> >
> > Well, the post lunch work was 90% successful. The swing arm is in, but I
have to have some machine work to modify the right side swing arm bolt to
shorten it and turn down the diameter so I ave the post that goes into the
bearing.
> >
> > I cut about 0.20 from each end of the pivot arm (ends that hold the
bearings). That was enough to get the swing arm into the frame. Then I had a
minor interference issue with the swing arm and frame. I pulled the swing arm
and cut 2 slots along each side of the interference spot, then got out a 5lb
sledgehammer to tap in the swing arm. Once I am ready to go final, I will
re-weld the cuts. The swing arm is a little thicker than the PC's so it will
hits the thin rod that runs across the frame. Its not an issue as the shocks
prevent the swing arm from touching the thin rod. I think the rod is there to
not let the wheel drop when the shocks are removed. I can pivot the VT swing
arm all the way up like the PC's. There may be a small interference with a
small bung welded to the frame. I can grid that a small amount and it clears.
> >
> > The one thing I have yet to do is modify the swing arm bolt on the right
side (one with the lock collar. It is too long now and the threads will not
engage. So I'll drop it off at the machine shop. They will have to shorten it,
then turn down the diameter of the last .45" to match the inside diameter of the
bearing. As a side note, I will have the machinist cut down the diameter to
match the VT bearing not the PC bearing so I will not need the copper liner.
> >
> > I cannot tell precisely how well centered the wheel is since I do not have
the right side bolt in. Without the bolt, the swing arm wants to slide a bit to
the right and droop a tad. When you hold it up, it looks very close.
> >
> > Before I mounted the wheel, I looked into the drive shaft and can see the
output drive spline is to the right (looking from the rear). The means I can
move the engine back to the left about 0.25", so this is an extra needed bonus
of this mod.
> >
> > Not much will happen for a few days. The machine shop trip will be on
Monday. Probably will cost me $45 (half hour work). Depending on their work
load, I might get it back on Wed.
> >
> > So until I know it all works, no buying on eBay just yet Douglas.
> >
> > Jerry
> >
> > --- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <sanae.ej@> wrote:
> > >
> > > A nice surprise, the VT parts came in today, only took 4 days from ebay
auction end.
> > >
> > > I plan to spend the weekend carefully measuring everything with the new
swing arm assemble in. I posted several pics of the entire VT swingarm
assembly. I'm only missing bolt for the caliper bracket and the rubber boot.
These will probably cost me $10 + shipping. That means I will have about $175 +
shipping to secure these pieces (wheel, swing arm, final drive, brake, axle,
brackets, master cylinder, boot, and pin)
> > >
> > > I took the plunge when bike bandit listed the same part numbers for the VT
and PC; drive shaft and same pivot bearings (bolts differ a tad in length I
think). This indicated the VT swing arm would probably fit.
> > >
> > > The potential good news; the cross member that connects across the swing
arm is further back than on the PC. For the PC its about 12" from axle to cross
brace, 14" for the VT. In the pics I posted, I C-clamped a ruler to it and
layed an orange triangle across the ruler. The ruler/orange triangle is 5.6"
away from the wheel. You can see if the tire came out this far, it would not
touch the cross brace of the swing arm. If I mount a 17" wheel with a
150/70ZR-17 tire it will come out this far (0.72" greater diameter than the PC
tire/wheel). A 150/60ZR-17 tire will be back another .57" (0.13" taller than a
PC tire/wheel).
> > >
> > > Tomorrow, I'll pull the PC swing arm assemble after taking critical
measurements. I'll measure the VT, then put it in. I'll post some pics
tomorrow.
> > >
> > > If this works, some you out there could make this swap without changing
engines (kind of easy as its almost a unbolt, bolt in operation). You can
upgrade tires and get a rear disc brake.
> > >
> > > I'm already thinking what I'm going to do next winter in that open spot
between the cross brace and pivot axle... but, I must finish the engine swap
first.
> > >
> > > Jerry
> > >
> > > --- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <sanae.ej@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I joined the NT700V forum to get some help on the rear wheel.
> > > >
> > > > Based on the message traffic so far helping me with dimensions, it looks
like the rear 17" wheel is going to fit! I will have to wait till all the VT
components come in, but if they line up, I will order the rear wheel. It will
slow down progress on getting the mounts done, but it will be worth it if I can
get the radial tires on too with the engine swap.
> > > >
> > > > Jerry
> > > >
> > > > --- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <sanae.ej@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I have been working this, but there hasn't been a lot to post as the
progress has been slow.
> > > > >
> > > > > 1. Still waiting for a rear inner trunk with frame to turn up. A
couple of site members said they may have one, but I have not heard back from
them
> > > > >
> > > > > 2. I am working through a different mounting set up similar to the
stock VT1100 with rubber isolators. The round stock came in on Fri (this is
after a false start on ordering the wrong size round stock - too big). In
working through this and practice MIG welding...
> > > > >
> > > > > 3. I started thinking about tires. When I'm done with the engine
transplant, I wanted to have a balanced bike. Not a PC with a bigger engine.
In looking at the tire choices we have a VERY narrow range of bias tires. There
are no motorcycle rear radial tires available. None. I wanted radial tires
because I really think they will affect the ride quality in a good way. I think
the industry is on their 3rd generation of radial tires. More and more bikes
are coming with radial tires, and here we are with old dated bias tires.
> > > > >
> > > > > So, I started looking into what it would take to put a 16" or 17"
wheel on the rear. This is what I found. There are 2 family of shaft drive
bikes from Honda. The V twin series with the final drive on the left side of
the bike. And the original multi-cylinder (except for the CX/GL 500/650
series). This includes the Goldwing, CX, and V-4 series bikes. The ONLY 16 or
17" rear wheels from the V twin series bikes are from the VTX 1800 (16") or
NT700V (17"). From the right are the wheels from the Goldwing (16") or ST
1100/1300 (17").
> > > > >
> > > > > Based on the newest generation radial tires, I am inclined to try and
see if I can get the NT700V 17" wheel to work. But, in order to do so, I have
to move the final drive to the left quite a bit. I am currently investigating
how to best do this. I think I know how to do this, but will take another week
or so to know for sure. The PC swingarm is set up for a 3.25" width wheel, the
VT1100 rear wheel is 3.5" wide and the NT700V is 4". So I need to move the
drive shaft about 0.37" to left - from the PC800 stock location. I think I can
get some of this using the VT1100 swingarm, but I don't know how much. At a
minimum I can get the VT1100 swingarm to work, so I can get the wider VT rear
wheel on so I at least get a disc brake in the rear. This allows for a possible
linked and/or ABS addition later.
> > > > >
> > > > > So, its been work on the rear wheel/brake system now to set the
swingarm placement, then finalize the location of the VT engine so I can make
the motor mounts... then find the timing problem, do the exhaust, then the
cooling system... there is much work still to go.
> > > > >
> > > > > It's hard to get time to post, so for my smaller activities, I have
taken to posting pics and adding some verbage. You can follow the activity
there and add comments to the pics.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jerry
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>