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Need a ?How-to? on installing progressive springs
Written by goldwingman40 on 9/18/2005 at 03:12 pm

Rod,
Read past post #17796, this will give you the basic info.
I suppose you could install the drain screws without pulling the
forks if you are good with tools and can drill a hole straight and
square with a hand drill. The drill spot comes in a groove on the
inside of the tube at the bottom and there is clearance on the inside
before you hit anything when drilling thru and tapping. If I was
doing it I would slide the fork tube assembly, wheel and all, down
about 4" and tighten the lower clamps to hold them. This will allow
you to loosen the top caps with a allen wrench at a slight angle to
clear the plastic with anly pulling the two steering stem side
covers. Slightly loosen the fork caps but do not unscrew, leaving
the "O" ring seald. Then slowly drill the tap drill size with the oil
in the forks, this will help push any chips out as you break thru.
Drilling thru slowly with a sharp drill and light pressure will
prevent raising a large burr inside. Then with a good, sharp 6mm tap
with the flutes full of heavy grease, to catch and hold chips, tap
some and back out several times to prevent chip buildup. When you
break thru don't go too far so you hit the dampening rods. Have a pan
under to catch the oil comming out. Carefully file a flat around the
hole for the crush seal washer to to seal on with a fine file. Now
remove the fork cap and spring and the remaining oil should run out.
This will help clean any chips. Move the forks up and down several
times to get all the oil out. Now compress the forks all the way and
hold them there. Install the drain screws and crush washers and fill
the forks with a good grade fork or suspension fluid, 10wt., to 6"
from the top. Then cycle the forks up and down several times to get
all the air out and compress it and recheck the oil to 6" from the
top. Now extend the forks and install the springs and fork caps,
bring careful not to cross thread the fine threads or the caps, it is
very easy. Slide your forks back up into position and you are ready
to go.
I am going to tap the fork caps inside the hex for small allen head
pipe plugs so if I want to I can change the oil without doing
anything except pull the drains and the small vent/fill pipe plugs in
the fork caps. I will have to have accurate syringes to measure the
oil to refill the forks, this will not be as accurate as measuring
from the top of the tube and you will have to wait longer to drain to
make sure you get all the oil out, but it will be a lot less work and
much better than the average PC that never gets the oil changed until
the fork seals leak.
Fred

--- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "WalRus \(Rod\)" <ravet@h...> wrote:
> how????? did you install the drain screws????????????
>
>
> WalRus
> Carson, Cal
> ' 97 PC800 TupperWare BuddhA
> iPCRC #69
> "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of
> arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but
> to skid across the finish line broadside, thoroughly used
> up, worn out, leaking oil and shouting, "GERONIMO!"."
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ipcrc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ipcrc@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
> Of Fred Seyfarth
> Sent: Saturday, September 17, 2005 7:51 PM
> To: ipcrc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: PC800: Re: Need a "How-to" on installing progressive
> springs
>
>
> Rudy,
> Forgot to say I don't have that problem. I installed the drain
> screws
> that honda left out on the PC.
> Fred
>
>
>
> --- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "Rudy Gallucci" <rudyg@n...> wrote:
> > --- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Seyfarth" <goldwingman@u...>
> wrote:
> > > Rudy,
> > > THey do not loosen the lower dampening rod bolt to just replace
> the
> > > springs and oil, it is only necessary if you are replacing the
> seals
> > > or bushings.
> >
> > I thought you were telling him to remove the lower bolt to drain
> the
> > oil as there is no other way without pulling the forks.
> >
> > Rudy
>
>
>
>
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