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Display Mesage #103619

The definitive Spark Plug thread
Written by pcnz2004 on 5/21/2011 at 10:37 pm

All good stuff from Phil .... I would add: Keep the spark plug tool in line with
the plug when giving the final tighten to prevent the tool leaning on the plug
insulator. They break quite easily. (I know from experience!!)

I use pencil lead as anti-seize. I have it handy and simply rub the pencil lead
onto the plug threads until a good deposit is there. You don't need to fill all
the threads all the way round, just a line down the lengh of the thread.
Graphite is the stuff to use. If the anti-seize used contains copper, it reacts
with the aluminium of the head and can do exactly the opposite to what you are
wanting it to.

Just my New Zealand 2 cents worth .... US$0.0156

Pacific Coasting on the Pacific Coast of New Zealand

--- In, "Phil" <phillip.g.boyd@...> wrote:
> My major contribution: put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the
new plugs, hand tighten then just about another 1/8 turn with the spark plug
tool on the socket wrench. You don't want to overdo it when tightening the
> Check the gap, but you almost never need to adjust the plugs anymore - they
tend to come pre-gapped just about right.
> The front right plug is the bitch to get in and out because of the angle -
make sure the engine is cool enough so that you don't have to worry about
burning yourself on the exhaust.
> Double-check the wires when you put them back on the plugs - you need to push
pretty hard to get them seated well.
> Phil
> Northern VA
> 1994 PC800 - Obsession
> --- In, "C172myP51" <c172myp51@> wrote:
> >
> > ...which brings me to my real reason for posting today. I've been searching
for info on changing out the spark plugs. It doesn't seem like there's a really
good thread describing the process, so if anyone could contribute I'd be more
than happy to video tape the change for the group.
> > -Scott
> > hershey, PA
> >

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