Honda Pacific Coast ipcrc Archives

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remove back tire?
Written by literidr on 3/16/2012 at 04:53 pm

Hey Tim,

The drive shaft is easy to replace because it leaves the universal joint in
place. If you want to replace that rear engine seal, you'll have to drop the
swing arm to get it done, and that is alot more work, including cleaning and
relubing the swing arm bearings and setting the preload on those bearings when
you put it back together.
And the most difficult part of all that is getting the castle nut loose from its
home on the side of the swing arm. Rust likes to make a single piece out of
that jamb nut and the bolt it attaches too.

FWIW,
John Handford, literidr@...
Taylors, SC
'90 PC "Spirit"

--- In ipcrc@yahoogroups.com, Tim Davies <yankeesmuggler@...> wrote:
>
> I just watched your fine video and have a few comments:
>
> 1. I didn't actually see a Yankee Smuggler screwdriver among your
> tools. It needs to be more easily accessible while working and for
> long jobs a pitcher of screwdrivers is highly recommended.
>
> 2. As this video was produced in a southern location, in a driveway,
> I'm surprised there was nothing to ward off the fire ants one might
> encounter while working.
>
> 3. Where can I get one of those fancy wing nuts? Neither of my 1998's
> had one. I have to make due with an OEM hex nut.
>
> 4. The nut I have on the swing arm strut to my rear brake has one
> extra part that yours does not, a cotter pin (OEM solution). There is
> a small hole in the bolt for a cotter pin or a reusable cotter pin
> hairpin. If a cotter pin is used then a new one should ALWAYS be
> used. I had a new tire put on at Americade one year and the idiots
> reused the cotter pin, or did not put one back in at all, and the nut
> came off, arm dropped down, and rear brake shaft snapped off.
> Fortunately "ever ready" Peter Teague was riding with me in the group
> and he had all the necessary bits to secure the arm back in place so
> I could finish the day's ride. The tire guys paid for the rear brake
> repair, but not for my time to get it done at home.
>
> 5. Thanks for showing me how easy it is to remove the drive shaft. I
> believe mine is leaking at the oil seal on the engine side and it
> looks like an easy thing to replace. I thought I had to take off many
> more parts. In case anyone is wondering, I have some engine oil that
> drips off the bottom of the final drive. Not enough to be dangerous,
> but something that needs fixing.
>
>
> Tim Davies
> Seneca Falls, NY
> Yankee Smuggler II 1998 (150,000 mi)
>
> On Mar 14, 2012, at 10:21 AM, Ting wrote:
>
> > Alrighty folks. The next installment of the Ting Tutorial has been
> > posted.
> >
> > How To Remove The Rear Tire and Final Drive.
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcxlBA60ykY&feature=g-
> > upl&context=G2e82c28AUAAAAAAAAAA
> >
> > Doug, I blame this on you as well. For the stats on your page, my
> > final drive came from a 2004 Shadow Spirit with 11K miles. Purchased
> > on ebay for $100 bucks. I had to swap the plastic dust guard. The
> > numbers on the drive are MAH-092395 / MAH-300. The final drive is a
> > blessing on the bike. The procedure was really easy.
> >
> > Speed /Old Final RPMs /New Final RPMs:
> >
> > 55 / 3600 / 3200
> > 60 / 4000 / 3600
> > 65 / 4200 / 4000
> > 70 / 4600 / 4200
> > 75 / 5000 / 4600
> > 80 / 5200 / 4800
> >
> > Ting
> > Atlanta, GA
> > '90 Red PC
> > Glen Scotia(pronounced Sko-sha)
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>