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Re: Engine Removal
Written by skyeenter on 10/14/2012 at 12:00 am

It's a lot of work if you do it by yourself. And it can be dangerous as well. Best to have someone with some strength and know how to assist.

Make sure the frame is supported with blocking or jack stands. Do not take anything for granted, this is a 680 lb machine. Once it starts to tip, particularly if you are below the center of gravity, which is where the engine is located, you will not be able to get out of the way fast enough.

No special tools needed. You must have common sense and a good mechanics tool set to do this. If you don't have a speed wrench I highly recommend you get one. There are a lot of nuts to remove. Doing it with a ratchet will seriously wear out your wrist. An air impact gun is even better.

Removing the engine requires middle level to confident mechanical skills. If you are a beginner mechanic and don't have the skills or the good mechanics tools set, don't try it. Damage to you or the PC can happen too easily.

You will interact with almost every system of the PC. You'll become quite familiar with the manual.

Get a magnetic tray for all the nuts and bolts and fasteners. Keep your work area neat and orderly; you'll will have to search for dropped parts or tools. Reinsert bolts and nuts into their holes as you remove them if possible. You will have no idea what some of them will be for once they are off the PC. More surprising is how many will be left over that you didn't know where they went or how they were used.

Familiarize yourself with the different fasteners, their shapes (collar depth is one of the most abused) and which parts are attached by them. Just because you have a 5mm bolt doesn't mean it goes in every 5mm hole. If you don't know what size goes where then refer to the parts list on any OEM dealers web site. The sizing and terminology will tell you what to use. Print it out if you need bike side reference. But it's time consuming to reinstall fasteners that way.

Wear protective gloves. Respect the environment when draining the fluids. Dispose of them according to your counties environmental guidelines.

Do a search under my name skyeenter . I wrote a quite extensive post on some of the do and don't along with some removal and install shortcuts I discovered and use. I think it's in the 09 year posts

You're gonna need a good auto jack. One that is small enough to fit under the engine. The engine weights around 300 lbs, so any single piston, 1,000 lbs capacity jack will work. Don't use the type of lift that is for ATV's and dirt bikes, it's worthless.

One member, Martechy, changed the engine by dropping the frame on to the floor and after removing the bolts, lifted the stripped frame off the engine. But that's about another 2 - 3 hours of work.

The time frame is all day. Make sure you have the right amount of fluids ready for refill. Coolant must be non silicate.

Make sure you have the u joint for the drive shaft in place before reinserting the engine, otherwise it requires dropping the center stand or the engine. The best way is to remove the drive axle and remove the shaft from the transmission before removal. Just make sure the u joint is in the shaft housing before reinstalling the engine. I've forgotten to do this twice, and if you want to be around for some cussing.

You cannot put an 89 engine in any of the other years unless you change the wiring harness.

Don't contact me through Yahoo mail if you need advice. I hardly ever read it.

Good luck on the change out. skye