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Display Mesage #97501

Trunk Latch Alternative - Part II
Written by goldwingman40 on 9/26/2010 at 03:25 am

That was what I was considering doing. I have the rubber stops adjusted so they
just hold the trunk lid so it doesn't wiggle up and down with no load on the
latch when you pull the release lever to minimize the chance of breaking the
cable or latch.

--- In, "pc800dork" <dokiedo@...> wrote:
> For those who are interested...
> I decided I'd see how well the trunk works with the (potentially disastrous)
rear lock disabled.
> I removed the rear striker. It was an easy job - Simply remove the two
hex-bolts on the inside rear lip of the trunk that hold on the brakes lights.
Slip them off and let them hang down. Up under the lip are two 10mm bolts that
attach the rear striker. Remove them. Angle the striker and tap it down
through the slot (it might make the job easier to lubricate the striker). The
reinstall the bolts for safe keeping.
> I then lubed the cables and the locks.
> After the striker was removed I tested the single lock to see how sturdy it
was on its own. I didn't notice any play in the trunk and it felt VERY sturdy.
I then tested it by putting the bike onto the center stand. That was not a
problem as I mostly use downward foot pressure on the stand along with pushing
the bike back with the passenger grab rail. No problem there. Taking it off
the stand won't put any stress on it for me, because I do that by sitting on the
bike and rocking forward.
> So - I will try it for a while. AT least if the cable breaks, opening the
trunk will be easy by just removing the rear seat.
> Putting it back the way it was would take about 10 minutes.

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