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Display Mesage #98071

Doing the hotwire mod and have a question
Written by pogomann2002 on 10/20/2010 at 01:10 pm

Hey Mark,
Don't confuse your readings with the "dreaded uside down voltage readings) with
proper operation. The "dreaded" issue is when it's reading 14 to 15 volts at
idle and 12.9 at higher speeds. What you are seeing is the battery being topped
off from starting drain and the extra juice being sent into the frame as heat by
the R/R, as it should.
Understand that voltage is only an indication of our charging ability, amperage
is the measurement that relates to the ability to do electrical work, for would never believe that two 9 volt somke dector batteries (18
volts) would turn over your engine, low amperage, or the static dischage when
touching a doorknob may be thousands of volts but a tiny amount of amperage.

I have an R/R that has the true upside down voltage issue, however when I rigged
up an ampmeter I found that the amperage was consistant with RPM's, that is,
lower at idle and higher at 3,4,5,6K This fits what a number of coasters have
said with their "upside downers". they work fine charging the batteries so leave
it alone unless you have battery issues.

At idle the PC does not produce enough amperage to support it's function, if you
let it idle long enough you will have a dead battery, I'm talking a long time
here so don't worry about killing your battery at a traffic light. The max
output of the system is 20 amps which is produced above 4K. at idle I've seen
around 5-6 amps. I'll be checking other R/R's shortly.

You are correct that the bike will not support all the heated add ons and
improvements at the same time which is why we use the voltmeter to "manage" the
available power is balance with road speed and temperature. city driving, brake
lights and fan will be very different than highway power management.

There was a time that I defined all the amperage draws for all the PC
systems....still looking for it somewhere on in a post but the bottom
line is that there is only so much amperage on hand at different RPM's.

The wirring mod will enhance the movement of power but will not create any more
than is available, it is very effective at getting back a small percentage of
power that is robbed by poor connections and wiring age. More is good!

Your R/R is fine.

--- In, "Mark" <mfmarkart@...> wrote:
> I decided to do the reverse and change out the R/R, go for a ride and get
results, then do the mod. Well the new R/R is installed (no mod) and I'm getting
some curious results. I now have the dreaded upside down voltage issue to some
degree. I rode 35 miles in to work this morning. Idles at 12.9v. when I'm doing
15mph, it's 14v, 25mph 13.8v, 35 mph 13.6, 45 mph 13.5, 55+ 13.4v and holds
steady. So at least the problem I was having with the voltage dropping and
staying at 12.4v seems to be fixed for the moment. I think I need to put on some
more miles to be sure. The 13.4v that it is currently holding at is .3v lower
than I used to produce with no additional load. The 13.4v would not be enough
for me to run high beam (.1v), radar detector (.1v) and grip heaters on high
(.5v), leaving me at 12.7v at cruising speed. I'm going to finish the wire mod
tomorrow. I pre-wired it to the battery and starter solenoid while I had the
seat and body panels off. I'm thinking of cleaning and greasing the grounds that
I can find while I'm at it. I know the main ground is by your right calf while
riding and I can find the fan ground. Any others I should be looking for? Mark
> --- In, "Mark" <mfmarkart@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks all for the advice! Seth, the illustration REALLY helps. I'm planning
on working on the mod tonight. My Chinese R/R is at the post office, picking it
up tonight. Will complete the mod first and test, then I'll replace the R/R.
I'll post the results. Mark
> >

Message Thread for message #98071